So, You Want to Start a Skincare Routine?
Know the Basics of a Routine Vs. the Splurges.
The Basics
Basic = Cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen. But that’s so boring right? I mean you’re here because you want a routine, so spill the deets.
I want to be honest, a simple routine does not equal lesser then. The basics get the job done because you are cleansing the skin, giving it some hydration and moisture which should help smooth and soften, feed it if you will and then protect it during the day with a sunscreen.
Consider the above a permission slip, in a world where shelfies and product junkies reign supreme on social media and skincare marketing is everywhere it is perfectly fine to scale down. If you’re just starting out, start slow or you know, if you’re lazy and don’t really want to practice an entire skincare ceremony before falling into bed, that’s ok too.
Some suggestions for the basics:
Make sure your cleanser is suitable for your skin type. If it leaves you feeling tight or dry or irritated find something new. The options are endless and there is no reason you should be using anything irritating on your skin. I prefer oil cleansing or using a creamy cleanser on my skin but I’m prone to irritation. Also in general, I skip washing my face in the mornings if I did a thorough cleanse the night before. A little splash of water and on to the next step is what this looks like generally.
If you choose to have one moisturizer, a lotion consistency will probably be best for most skin types. If you lean a little more dry then consider a cream or face oil.
The options for moisturizers are endless, pro tip- always treat any inflammation first. That means if you are wanting something anti-aging or something good for acne but you have red, irritated, angry skin on top of that find a moisturizer that promotes a gentle formula, good for sensitive skin. Treat the inflammation first, then move on to a moisturizer that touts it’s anti-aging benefits if you want to move on.
Yes you should have SPF on during the day but at night you don’t need it. So I would suggest buying a moisturizer with no SPF that you use both day and night and then layering SPF on top of that in the mornings.
Pick a sunscreen that you like, worry less about if it’s chemical or physical starting out. The best sunscreen is the one you will actually use. If you buy a mineral sunscreen because it’s considered more natural but you hate the white cast it leaves, guess what will be getting left behind as the days go on. Trust me, you’ll reach for it less and less. SPF of 30 or above is preferable.
The Splurges
Let’s build a little on our routine shall we. So you have your 3 basics but you want a little more oomph. First assess your skin if you are able or preferably, have a professional do it (shameless plug). This will give you a better idea of what products to look for and what’s most suitable for you.
Go through what you currently have. If this is applicable, throw out anything that is irritating, drying or you just hate. Keep any products you like (even if you know you will not repurchase) and finish those products up first. If you care about being green this is one of the best ways to utilize your green lifestyle values. Don’t waste!
Here are some extras that you may consider adding on, these may be extra steps in your daily routine or something you add in maybe once a week or month.
I would say a more typical routine looks something like this:
Cleanser
Toner
Serum or Essence
Exfoliator
Moisturizer
Eye Treatment
Mask
Sunscreen
Let’s chat about these new additions. If you are already familiar then skip to the next section.
Toners/Mists- Skincare’s equivalent to “flyover states.” It’s not an unnecessary step as you may think, especially if you are using a facial oil as your moisturizer. This is what I call the hydration layer. I pat and press several layers of this into my skin and let it dry a little before moving on to my next step. A lot of times if you have dehydrated skin this addition is extremely helpful.
Serum or Essence- These aren’t exactly one in the same but they are similar enough that I’m using interchangeably here. Usually a more concentrated product, typically lighter in weight than a lotion or cream and usually has a more focused “job” for example brightening, calming, acne reducing and/or it may feature a certain ingredient like Vitamin C, Niacinimide etc. If you have a specific concern you’d like to narrow in on, a serum or essence can be a great addition to your routine.
Exfoliator- Do you want a physical exfoliator or a chemical one? Physical exfoliators typically look like a scrub where as chemical usually comes with the name like Glycolic Acid or Retinoid. People LOVE to over do it with exfoliators. My biggest skincare pet peeve. Over exfoliating only damages your barrier and causes more problems down the road. I recommend once a week or less, like twice a month.
Eye Treatment- pretty self explanatory. Right now I have a moisturizing cream I use on my face and I use it around my eyes. But I have a ton of products and I’m happy to have one less bottle laying around. You don’t exactly need an eye cream if you don’t want it, just be sure to keep the area hydrated and moisturized like the rest of your face, if that means your daily lotion does the trick then great but if that is too irritating or slippery for around the eye area then go for that eye serum you’ve been “eyeing.”
Face Mask- Another category with endless options. Face masks can be exfoliating, calming, hydrating etc with also endless amounts of consistencies, clay, cream, gel etc. For the sake of keeping this article a non offensive length I will just say that usually you don’t use a face mask every day. This product supplements your routine once or twice a week.
Dont Mix too Many Actives at Once
Just like over exfoliating people also tend to over “activate” their skin. What are active ingredients? Ingredients like Vitamin C, Alpha Hydroxy Acids, Retinols, Niacinimide, Hyaluronic Acid etc there are too many out there to list. They are usually the buzzy marketing term labeled on the product that help the product do what it claims it will do.
So how can you avoid this? One way would be to stick to one product, in one skincare category, at a time. You have ONE serum, ONE exfoliator, ONE mask. Use them for a couple months or until you run out (assuming you don’t have a bad reaction), see how your skin does, decide if you’d like to repurchase, if not move onto something else. You don’t really NEED three serums, two masks, two eye creams etc. Now if that’s your prerogative then fine but just make sure you aren’t over doing it.
Also time of year makes a difference too. One serum may do much better on your skin in the summer than in the winter. It’s normal to use products seasonally.
Do a little research too. For example if you are using a Retinoid it’s unnecessary to also be using a Glycolic Acid, even if that Glycolic is just a weekly mask. Certain active ingredients don’t mix well with others. You’ve been warned! Look into things, don’t just purchase because your fav skincare influencer said so…which brings me to the third suggestion…
Be Careful on Social Media
What does that mean? Be careful with social media influencers and their recommendations. Many have good intentions but they are working with brands and are being paid to promote products, they are ads, they are marketing, they are there to drive up sales. While there is nothing inherently wrong with that you may not be getting the best advice for YOUR unique skin type. Some influencers also work for multi-level marketing companies such as Beautycounter, Arbonne or Rodan & Fields etc. Again, while many people selling these skincare products likely have good intentions you have to ask how much does this individual really know about skin, what certifications or trainings do they have to be able to make such recommendations? Social media can be wonderful for discovering new things but it’s over saturated with advice and recommendations. A lot of influencers receive payment or free products/offerings to post about skincare products. Brands and companies know this looks more genuine but in the end it’s the same energy and idea you’d see in a traditional ad or marketing campaign.
I’m not here to put anyone down, my final suggestion: Credentials can be a distinguishing factor in who you trust on social media and who you may not take as seriously. Look for the credentials when it comes to skincare advice on social media.
If you are in the St. Louis area and would like to have a professional asses your skin and make product recommendations accordingly please consider booking an appointment. I offer consults along with facial treatments at Golden Door Stl- a collective space for practitioners focusing on holistic health. If you have any questions please email: lauren@moonlightrituals.com